| Instructions
for Installing Barbacks - R1100S with Comfort Bars Please
read this completely before you begin. Oscar the CNC guy suggests you use Loctite
on the barback screws for insurance.
Props to Paul Longo who helped me with
a few details here. Thanks Paul! 
1. Cut the cable ties that fasten the handlebar control wiring harnesses near
the stock bars and at the steering head. (Let me note. I admit I had my fairing
panels off when I first installed the prototypes because I was doing a brake bleed
at the time. Therefore it was very easy to access the cable ties!)
2. If you haven't already raised you bars on the fork tubes like I did,
remove the wire circlip that holds the bars on. Put the circlip in your parts
drawer. You won't be needing this.
3. Loosen the socket cap screws completely and remove the comfort bars
on one side from the fork tubes. Place it on some padding (like a blanket) on
top of the fuel tank to avoid scratches.
4. Clean the surfaces of the fork tubes to remove any dirt, grease and oil. 
5. Turn your forks all the way to the steering lock on the side you are
installing for clearance and slack. Slip the barback male post into the comfort
bars female clamp on, snug the clamp bolt slightly, just enough so that they don't
pull off and you can still adjust them.
6. Mount the entire handlebar/barback onto the fork tube. You'll find this
is much easier than trying to mount the barbacks first and then stretching your
wires and cables to get the comfort bars onto the barback's post. Repeat steps
1-5 on the other side.
7. Line up the barbacks onto the fork tubes. This is a very snug fit, so
be patient. Make sure your barback screws are completely loose. The back may want
to "rock" onto the post. This is fine, but try to level it with a tap
on the top surface. A good hit with the heel of your hand or a mallet will help
slip the barbacks in place on the fork tubes. Once you have the barbacks all the
way down on the tubes, adjust them so that they are pointing straight ahead (parallel)
and snug down the clamp screws just enough to keep them in position. Partially
tighten clamp bolts on the bars to allow adjustment.
Note:
You'll see that the positioning tab on the comfort bars will touch where it meets
the barback top surface, and the bottom of the barback also might make some contact
with the tapered fork tube cap. The positioning tab sort of acts like a spacer
here. For those of you who are adept, some re-fitting could be done for a more
custom fit. A fair amount of machining/filing on the comfort bar would be required
to do this. There are design improvements that could be done, but that's another
subject and another cost…personally, I'm O.K. with the way it works. 
8. Alignment: Most people like to align the bar backs parallel and symmetrical,
tighten, and then adjust the comfort bars to suit. However, the barbacks have
some concentric adjustment on the fork tube. Use your own discretion and adjust
the set-up to fit your ergos best. Adjust the setbacks and comfort bars to clear
the fuel tank at full steering lock in both directions.
*If
necessary, VERY slightly loosen the hydraulic banjo bolts at the clutch and/or
brake master cylinder and rotate the line just enough to clear the left setback,
then re-tighten the banjo bolt. (*This from Paul, I haven't tried or needed to
do this.). 9.
Check wiring harnesses and hydraulic lines for possible points of abrasion and
for adequate slack at full steering lock. Re-install new cable ties where necessary.
10. Per Paul's instructions, it's suggested that the torque on the fork
setback clamps, and comfort bar clamps to be 25 Nm (+/-18 ft-lbs). That worked
for me.
Since you have 2 socket screws per clamp, you'll want to alter
tightening of each screw until the clamp is good and snug. Torque at your own
judgment. I tightened mine down so they don't move without a really good whack
on the bars. I'll suggest here that you tighten them down more than that. When
in doubt, use a torque wrench (you do have a torque wrench don't you?!). I'd say
that <18ft-lbs would be about max. There has been only one person that managed
to torque it down so hard that they twisted the head off the SS screw…so, the
billet will take it
Finally... Take a ride and see if it was worth the wait…and let me
know what you think.
| 
